3 days in Traverse City, Michigan

No matter what time of year, heading 'up North' in Michigan is a trip to be savored. And this August 2021 experience did not disappoint! The 3 1/2 hour drive from Metro Detroit was rewarded with lunch at Mama Lu's for the freshest guacamole and inventive tacos we've had in a long time. Watching the summer crowds on busy Union Street pass by as we ate outside was complimented by the efficient, friendly service (thanks Keegan!) 

Using Traverse City as our home base, the first trail hit was the TART leaving from Clinch Park Marina we followed the trail across Grandview and into the woods and rolling farmland surrounding Traverse City's downtown. This paved, relatively flat path had only a few road crossings and provided the right amount of sun vs. shade for this fair skinned rider. We turned around after 13 miles but would consider riding all the way to Suttons Bay someday. I hear there is the reward of beer at Hop Lot Brewing if you make it that far.

Dinner found us checking in at The Filling Station Microbrewery. There was a one and a half hour wait so while waiting for the table we drove ten minutes for a starter beer at Right Brain Brewery. Sitting at the bar it was fun to sample unique to the location brews with the sound of pin ball machines and happy people in the background. Gary gives a thumbs up to a half n' half of Northern Hawk Owl and CEO. How cool is that to mix two beers? Back to The Filling Station for a bit more beer and the best pizza outside of Italy if you are a thin crust lover. Something wonderful must be happening here beyond the great beer and pizza because the staff was the happiest we encountered in the area! See if you can get the little table by the kitchen window and you'll witness what we mean.

Day two found us driving 30 minutes West to Empire where we wisely first gathered a picnic lunch at Shipwreck Cafe. It took everything in us not to bite into the 'Three Brothers'  when we saw it and we can report that once we enjoyed it on our ride it was even more delicious than it looked! It was so wonderful to have hearty herb bread, snappy arugula and onions and above board cured meats to give us the energy to carry on in our pedaling. Then a two minute drive from the cafe and we were pleased to easily find the trailhead to the Heritage Trail that would lead us through Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. I was thankful for my e-bike as silly me didn't think about there being hills (what was I thinking -- it is a park around huge sand dunes!) but Gary handled it all just fine in his usual stellar biking style. The first half of the total 20 mile ride had is through dense woods full of those majestically tall up North trees that eventually opened to the sand dunes. At the dune entrance it was fun to pause, watch and listen to the many tourists trekking up these monstrosities of sand. A sign at the trail head suggested that we should "Look around. ...because the dunes have stories to tell. The seemingly silent hills speak volumes when you look carefully. The irregular shapes of the dunes were formed by ancient lakes ....12,000 years ago." The second half of this ride was through sandier areas dotted with wild flowers and a few campsites. We turned around at Glen Arbor and headed to a park bench outside the historic, beachside cannery to enjoy our lunch. And to be noted about said lunch -- one sandwich was plenty for us to share.

After conquering those hills the reward was a drive back to Glen Arbor to walk around the charming artsy town and grab an ice cream cone at The Pine Cone. Buyer beware, the servings are more than generous!

A drive back along scenic M-22 was a classic Michigan experience. And the day was capped off with dinner at Trattoria Stella. We'd read about the restaurant as being not to miss Michigan Italian food experience. The pasta was house made and if that's special to you you'll enjoy the ravioli as much as we did. The service and white linen table cloths was old fashioned (in a good way) but when we visit next time we have scoped out a seat at the bar that we think we'd like to try instead. Note -- the front door is off the back parking lot, not the street you come in on.

Day three called for a rest for this riders legs! The day started visit Sara Hardy Downtown Farmer's market instead. It's the last week of cherry season and that was just one reason to give this market a total thumbs up. By the time we were done exploring every, single booth our car was loaded with typical market fare of fruits and vegetables plus the unusual finds of foraged mushrooms (Great Lakes Treats), Italian cheeses (Saltless Sea Creamery), and Michigan maple syrup (Twin Maples Farm) to be savored on the return home. 

The Traverse City shopping is top notch, not touristy, and pretty affordable. So before brunch we checked out the Warehouse MRKT and the Antiquities Warehouse. Both held many items that fed our creative side. We were glad we made a reservation at the Red Spire Brunch House in the Grand Traverse Commons which used to be the Traverse City State Hospital . The developers have done a really good thing in repurposing this complex with restaurants, shopping, offices and places to reside. It's totally worth exploring but make sure you have a cinnamon roll at Red Spire! They brilliantly slice the roll horizontally, grill it and then pour on the icing. So, so good!

You thought we'd had enough to eat but after a sit on the beach at Clinch Park and on the way out of town we couldn't resits stopping at MOOmers Farm Creamery. We were so glad we did. The cherries moobilee ice cream was the perfect finale for this getaway and the sunflower field was the most beautiful place to enjoy it.

We'll be back Traverse City! You did not disappoint.